원정 개요

Doug Scott, Afanassieff and Sustad attempted to traverse Makalu, up SE Ridge and down NW Ridge (normal) route. Mooney, Fullalove, M. Scott and Brookes attempted NW Ridge route.

Trio turned back short of summit and descended via ascent route because of bad snow conditions and fatigue which led Afanassieff to panic and retreat via route he knew.

While trio made southeast push, four other men went for northwest side. Mooney and Michael Scott reached 7400m (Makalu La) on 27 May then went down next day because of Mooney's eye problem.

Avalanche hit Sustad at bottom of East Face at 8000m on 29 May but no real injury to him. Mooney suffered painful pressure on one at 7400m on Makalu, 3 on earlier climbs.

Sickness (hepatitis) took Giobellina; concussion on Chamlang caused Hall to leave; Chaplin came only for Baruntse climb; Bruce and Higgins had important family event back home to attend.


Doug Scott - 13 June 84

Climbed Makalu SE Ridge and then to left of Korean route on East Face - suffered from same bad snow.

Bivouac sites:
7200m "on mushroom"
7900m in Eastern Cwm just below on summit
8150m on headwall = East Face 8350m and 50m above that night to 8400m
9 days BC to BC.

Turned back because Jean didn't think it safe for him to go on. Fatigue and couldn't let him go back alone on descent. Sustad got avalanched at bottom East Face at about 8000m on 29th.

3 days without fuel gas, so no fluids except snow in water bottles.
6 miles - 1st integral traverse of SE Ridge down into Eastern Cwm and up East Face; Cwm full of bad snow.
3 nights above 7900m which is a lot.
Sustad: "never been so exhausted in my life."
Scott: getting out of East Cwm most strenuous thing I've ever done in my life, extra bit you have to pull out cause from stomach the horror, tend to just want to go to sleep and forget it."

No Sherpas went above BC for Makalu, but 3 beyond BC earlier climbs.

Complete traverse would have been preferable to what we did. Would have been easier to go lower 40-degree slopes walk down to Makalu La than back down into East Cwm. Most impossible thing we could have done was what we did - down avalanche-prone head wall. If hadn't been for Jean's "demise," would have continued on to do traverse. Jean said last night he panicked at 8400m and if going again would go on up. This is why so few traverses are done - going into the unknown on other side is frightening.

Jean also bothered perhaps more than Scott and Sustad by body sitting at 8350m where they camped. Rather "off putting" - presumably is 1976 Czech's Schubert.


Mooney - 13 June 84

Mooney went to Makalu La in 3 days with Michael Scott - too fast perhaps. Next morning had eye trouble with pain and pressure form behind eye so went down. Would have stayed one day at La for rest and then tried for top. Michael becoming stronger than Mooney. They got to Col 27 May and down 28th.

Slightly different route from Spanish 1984 spring route - more direct route by Mooney. Used no ropes at all. Camped route at 22,000 ft on 26th and then to original French route. Stopped on 26th at about 20,000 ft on glacier.


Buhler - 9 June 84

Scott, Afanassieff and Sustad reached high point on 29 May on SE Ridge at foot of a rock wall blocking route. Wall can be traversed around and above that 50 degree snow slopes, very soft snow. Schubert's body at foot of this rock wall. Scott team's high point about 27,500 ft (8400m). 3 bivs at and above 7900m. Descended southeast side.

M Scott and Mooney got to Makalu got to Makalu La and turned back. Mooney had eye problem.


Brian Hall - 27 May 84

Makalu when left BC on 20th planned rest till 22nd and then go to mountain but Doug bad bronchitis and perhaps delayed - 2 teams again.

1) Brooks, M Scott, Mooney and perhaps Sustad
2) D. Scott, Afanassieff and perhaps Sustad

1) northwest side, normal route, which Basques had just climbed with a Sherpa part way up with Brookes party.
2) to southeast - original buttress plan dropped because too icy so would go to same route Scott tried before; possible if Scott's illness delay and then all to do alpine ascent of northwest [ridge].