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Scott's party and another (Hall, Brooks, Mooney, Sustad and 2 Sherpas) because separated. Hall, Brookes and Sustad reached 6900m when Hall hit by ice block and they had to turn back.

Did not go to main summit because it was too far away. Chamlang climb was primarily a warm up for Makalu.

"Quite technical" below 3rd bivouac - snow and ice.


Scott - 13 June 84

5600m 1st camp (successful team)
6500m 2nd camp
7200m 3rd camp
6600m 4th on way down

Quite technical below 3rd camp. Scottish grade 2 & 3 snow and ice. Led by Michael Scott. 5-day round trip from BC at 16,000 ft to BC. Did not go to highest summit because too far away; did climb as warm up for Makalu.


Brian Hall - 27 May 84

Chamlang: After rest at BC back to ABC on 12 May; from ABC on 14 May; from ABC on 14 May up ice face to 6200m (face south of Chamlang Glacier) - North Face of East Summit point 7290m by 2 teams.

1) Doug and M Scott, Afanassieff and Ang Phurba
2) Brookes, Sustad, Mooney, Hall, Pasang and Saila

15 May 2) went to 6700m (just west of point 6705m) and bivouacked while Jean to biv at about 7000m (east of pt 7290m)

16 May 1) to pt 7290m = East Summit at 8:30 am intended to traverse to point Scott and Messner reached in 1981 but Scott mistook which col for descent and went down a north face which took them to night of 17th to get off of. Extremely difficult descent and Ang Phurba did very well in such an alpine climb; as difficult as descending North Face of Eiger Doug and Jean reported. In dark of 17th returned to ABC.

2) Mooney developed snowblindness during night of 15/16 May; May 16th am was completely blind and in great pain. 2 Sherpas did not want to go on. Hall, Brookes and Sustad set off for East Summit intending not to traverse but return way they came. They reached steep part of ridge between 6800-7000m with Sustad in lead when he knocked block of ice off which hit Hall on head and knocked him out for few seconds. Hall didn't feel well and decided to go down. Sustad and Brookes helped him to biv where Mooney and Sherpas were. Then Mooney, Hall and 2 Sherpas were lowered down face on ropes to 6200m. 17 May Hall better. Mooney lowered while Hall escorted Sherpas down - got to ABC finally.

18 May all to BC. Hall, Bruce and Higgins left BC 20 May.

3 Sherpa listed on permit as members since Chamlang requires joint expeditions until first success.