원정 개요

BC at normal site (lower than some this autumn)
C3 at normal C3.

Never used C2; took people training to site of C2 at top of tower & first party tried for top from C1 to normal site of C2 & on 18th got within 150m of top but got very cold (had started at 5 am) & started to get white toes - they hadn't expected this cold weather (Kvale, Palmer & Smith); came down to C1 same day. Others 4 members went up to C3 on 18th & to top on 19th. 2 "Sherpas" left C3 an hour after members; came up because wanted to & meet members just below summit in descent; all down to BC; first trio left BC 22 Oct & on top 24th Oct; left C3 later (8:30 am) than in 1st attempt.

First successful party down to C1 19th except Pfetzer & Spitzer, who stayed in C3 because 15-year-old Pfetzer was tired.

Burgess actually leader but went into Khumbu a week ahead of others to buy supplies & set up camp & met members in Namche. This planned in advance & made Spitzer leader so he could be in KTM for tourism briefing.

Very impressive how smoothly teams mixed together, esp. Kammerlander, Dujmovits & H. Todd met with Burgess to work out what would be done by whom & "it was good to work with professionals" about correctly fixing ropes, e.g.

Pfetzer (15 yrs) left expedition as soon as he finished his climb so he could get back to high school - his mother was at BC and he had his text books there too and send them - Pfetzer returned to KTM 27 Oct and said by phone 28 Oct: had left C3 at 9:30 am reached top at 12 noon - "it make great" although route in shade and very cold - plans to go to Everest again in spring '96 (with Henry Todd expedition).