원정 개요

BC 1 hour before lake (which was very windy) at bottom of Thulnagi Glacier.

Started on 12th Jan at 2:30 am from C4 at -32 degrees C inside tent and -33 degrees outside. Could climb while wind low, then had to wait while wind was strong (150-170 kph). Reached top 10:55 am, found Korean flag and red piton on top which was probably German. Returned to C2 on 12th, ABC 13th.

Tee second party, Pawlikowski and Probulski started from C3 on 13th Jan in terrible wind and could not find C4 tent in fog so returned to C3 and to ABC 15 Jan.

Lot of rock fall, very dangerous. At first tried pretty much directism but had to shift to much same route as Austrians 1972. Terrible winds: sometimes climbers had to wait 15-20 minutes lying down before wind abated and they could move. C3 tents frequently destroyed. "Never again in winter" says Korniszewski will he climb. 2000m fixed rope entire route.

Jaworski had failed to use both fixed ropes. Very dangerous short section of route which could not be avoided. After Jaworski's accident, put in still more ropes making three to be used at same time.

Took long time to establish C4: 3 days out for Xmas celebrations with tree, 3 days lost replacing lost gear. Much fixed rope required on this section.


Banskota, Tourism - 30 Dec 83

C2 16 Dec 6350m
C3 21 Dec 7100m
by 4 members: Ryszard Gajewski, Boguslaw Probulski, Maciej Pawlikowski and Zbigniew Mlynarczyk.

Of second party 2 members started from C3 on 13th Jan in terrible wind and could not find C4 tent in fog so returned to C3.