한국산악아카이브 | KOREA MOUNTAIN ARCHIVE

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UPC Everest 1995 (UPC=Polytecnic University of Catalonia)

Everest · 1995 · 가을 (3) · Spain

원정 개요

Chinese BC at road
ABC at normal ABC
C1 at base of Japanese Couloir
Biv at North Col
High point at 1st Step.

Spent all of Sept acclimatizing to N Col and south of Everest. On 4th Oct started attempt to climb face/couloirs, reached 6600m on 4th; then stopped and abandoned route because danger of windslab avalanching here so down to C1.

Then went to normal route. Made biv at N Col on 7th Oct. 8th to 7800m and biv. 9th 8200m. 10th stayed there resting (was lot of wind). 11th 2 members reached 1st step at 8500m but had to retreat in strong wind and very cold ("we were about to freeze") so back to 8200m that night. Climb now finished because cold and wind (Koreans summited on 14th but bad frostbite).

  • 내부 원정 ID1548
  • 원본 EXPIDEVER95302
  • 대장Albert Castellet
  • 루트 (Route)N Face (Japanese & Hornbein Couloirs) (to 6600m)
  • 최고 도달고도8500m
  • 정상 등정 성공아니오
  • 산소 사용미사용·확인 필요
  • 종료 사유악천후 (4)

참가자 8명

이름국적역할정상 등정산소사망
Albert CastelletSpainLeader---
Ernest Blade CastelletSpainClimber---
Nestor BohigasSpainClimber---
Manuel De La Matta SastreSpainClimber---
Xavier Gonzalez GraciaSpainClimber---
Xavier Lamas MirallesSpainExp Doctor--사망
Fernando (Ferran) Latorre TorresSpainClimber---
Araceli Segarra RocaSpainClimber---

출처·참고문헌

Hawley, Elizabeth · 1995 · 학술지·저널 (2) · AAJ
· 1995 · 잡지 (3) · HIGH
http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199625803/Asia-Nepal-Mount-Everest-Attempts-Ascents-and-Tragedies-in-the-Post-Monsoon · 1995 · 웹사이트 (5) ·