원정 개요

BC at bottom of Icefall
Biv in Cwm
Biv on West Face.

Really 2 teams:
Team A: Alberto, Felix, Fernando & Onchu
Team B: Juanito, Um, Juan & Kazi.

Team (A) to C2 directly from BC 24th Sept; 26th to 200m above normal C3 of Everest at 7600m on Lhotse W Face without fixed rope. 27th to summit, arrived at 12:00 after 9 hrs climbing & slept in camp in Cwm (6400m); BC on 28th (Fernando to Cwm only & back to BC).

26th Team (B) fixed 600m on face & down to BC. (B) left BC on 30th Sept to C2, 1st Oct to (A)'s camp at 7600m & 2nd to summit (Um & Kazi not to top: Um frostbite problem, Kazi not so strong).

8 Oct - Kazi only to between Cwm Camp & face & down because not so strong & no space on face for 4 men in tent. 2nd Oct 3 members started up together but Um stopped briefly because toes getting cold; waited half-hour in sun, then up alone to top half - 3/4 hrs after 2 Spanish members.

Inurrategi team on Cho Oyu had no problem about crossing border illegally at Nangpa La to climb without permit.


Xavier Egueskitza - 6 May 96

Basques say Um did not reach Lhotse summit - he was too tired. Claimed he summited because of fear of losing his sponsorship if he failed.


Um - 23 Dec 96

Um denies stoutly that he failed to reach summit.


Inaki Ochoa - 28 Mar 2007

Um Hong-Gil, Juan Vallejo and Juanito Oiarzabal were on the same rope together on Lhotse when approaching the summit. But Um turned back at about 8300m disconnecting himself from the rope, thus not summiting.