원정 개요

BC at road
C3.1 at NE Ridge
C3.2 at North Col.

10th Sept going up face to make C3 but avalanche at 6900m hit 2 members, Ra & Park & 4 Sherpas & falling 700-800m; Park broke 2 ribs, Ra ankle injured & 2 Sherpas Ok, but Lhakpa Nuru buried in snow & died of suffocation despite artificial respiration. All members & Sherpas down to BC & body cremated at Rongbuk Gompa. 17th Sept up to C2 & but still dangerous avalanching on route so abandoned this time & went up ridge to main route to make C3 at 7100m on 24th Sept. Then followed main NE Ridge & reached only 7700m on 28th Sept; but strong wind & no support Sherpas & when tried to carry up more rope, etc., not enough strength to continue this route so 3 Oct descended & abandoned NE Ridge attempt.

From same ABC went to N Col. 9th Oct summit bid by 7 members & reached 8700m at bottom 2nd Step but stopped here because not enough rope & bottom of ladder missing & back to ABC.

Next summit bid 12th Oct to C4 from ABC, 13th to C5 & 14th summit. In descent Han stopped for 5 hours at 2nd Step, waiting for University member whose oxygen stopped and helped University member down. Now climb finished.