원정 개요

C1 at West Col
C2 below ridge.
High point at SE Ridge.

Planned summit bid for 21 Sept but heavy snowfall during night of 20/21 sent the 7 in C2 down to BC. Most members wanted to go to Island Peak because of deep snow so 7 members went with sirdar to Island Peak while Kraus, Heckele & Winklhofer stayed at Baruntse BC.

22 Oct up to C1, 23rd 3 am & in 2-1/2 hours in C2; very strong wind but reached ridge 8 am (had waited for sunrise) at 7000m. Here found 90-degrees ice wall 2-1/2 to 4m high & ridge totally blank ice; Kraus putting in ice and screws and when Heckele fell and hanging from fixed rope and had no energy to get out of this fix; Kraus had to come down 150-200m in wind to see what had happened, cut Heckele from fixed rope (who was not injured) and helped him down to BC at 4:30 pm. Kraus at least would have reached summit otherwise. These 3 men went to Island Peak via Amphu Laptsa and arrived Island Peak BC 25th Oct.