Alp-Sport Expedition 1995
Baruntse · 1995 · 가을 (3) · Russia
원정 개요
BC at normal BC (on west side) for SE Ridge, west-southwest of West Col
Biv 1 near top of Icefall
Biv 2 at beginning of W Pillar
Biv 3 on W Pillar
Biv 4 on W Pillar
Biv 5 on W Pillar
Biv 6 on W Pillar just below South Summit on SE Ridge.
1st climbed to West Col 27-28th to mark descent route in weather bad (snow and cloud) and could see nothing and went only to 6500m and back to BC. Next searched for route to icefall, which is easy. Fixed ropes but after climbed up, then made biv above, removed rope and used again. Summited on 11 Oct at 3 pm (left biv 6 at 9 am). In descent biv near south summit at 5 pm; next down S Ridge to BC on 12th at 2:30 pm. Others went up 6600m for making route of descent. Next difficult section in mixed rock and ice below to above biv 6 at 65 degrees; problem to find belay points because ice covered rock and Efimov just above last biv and here route steeper (75 degrees for 50m).
No other team had started climbing Baruntse when Russians were on it.
- 내부 원정 ID1540
- 원본 EXPIDBARU95301
- 대장Sergei Efimov
- 루트 (Route)W Pillar up; SE Ridge down
- 최고 도달고도7152m
- 정상 등정 성공예
- 산소 사용미사용·확인 필요
- 종료 사유정상 등정 성공 (1)
참가자 11명
| 이름 | 국적 | 역할 | 정상 등정 | 산소 | 사망 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Sergei Borisovich Efimov | Russia | Leader | - | - | - |
| Sergei Bychkovski | Russia | Exp Doctor | - | - | - |
| Yuri Ermachek | Russia | Climber | 성공 | - | - |
| Nikolai (Nike) Jiline | Russia | Climber | 성공 | - | - |
| Salavat Khabibulin | Russia | Climber | 성공 | - | - |
| Andrei Kouznetsov | Russia | Climber | - | - | - |
| Alexandre Mikhailov | Russia | Climber | - | - | - |
| Valeri Pershin | Russia | Climber | 성공 | - | - |
| Boris Sedusov | Russia | Climber | - | - | - |
| Alexandr Verevkin | Russia | Climber | - | - | - |
| Evgeni Vinogradski | Russia | Climber | 성공 | - | - |