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Makalu SE Ridge Expedition

Makalu · 1995 · 가을 (3) · USA

원정 개요

BC south of Barun Pokhari
ABC NNE of Barun Pokhari
C1 on glacier southwest of southeast Glacier
C2 at South Col
Biv 3 at SE Ridge - the mushroom (rock)
Biv 4 in Cwm (eastern Cwm)
Biv 5 at west wall of eastern Cwm.

SE Face too dangerous from avalanching so not attempted. Winds from east got stronger as ths summit team came down from camp/biv 5 to C2 on 10th. Lost 2 tents early in climb at S Col. From 15th Sept to 3 Oct very bad weather with 1 meter of unconsolidated snow and strong winds that blew snow especially at S Col. Most difficult section at 8400m rock on West Pillar (50-75m high) which couldn't surmount and had to climb around in very deep snow on steep cliff. Snow, rain and wind from 3 Sept to 3 Oct and this demoralized member who left early. With weather not letting up, it was not possible to make fixed camps above South Col; wanted to make at least one camp in cwm.

  • 내부 원정 ID1539
  • 원본 EXPIDMAKA95301
  • 대장Daniel Mazur
  • 루트 (Route)SE Ridge
  • 최고 도달고도8485m
  • 정상 등정 성공예
  • 산소 사용미사용·확인 필요
  • 종료 사유정상 등정 성공 (1)

참가자 17명

이름국적역할정상 등정산소사망
Daniel Lee (Dan) MazurUSALeader성공--
Roblee Peter AllenUSAExp Doctor---
Olivier BessonFranceClimber---
Pierre-Alain BronSwitzerlandClimber---
Andrew (Andy) CollinsUKClimber성공--
Christophe JondFranceClimber---
Andrew N. LaffertyUKClimber---
Scott LewallenUSAClimber---
Alexander P. (Alec) McNabUKClimber---
Aleksei (Alex) NikiforovRussiaClimber성공--
William O'NeillUKClimber---
Jacques PahudSwitzerlandClimber---
Jonathan C. PrattUKClimber성공--
Christopher ShawUSAClimber---
Allan S. TreadwellUSAClimber---
Jean-Christophe Van WaesFranceClimber---
David WallisUKClimber---

출처·참고문헌

The End of a DreamMazur, Daniel · 1995 · 학술지·저널 (2) · AAJ
1995 Makalu Southeast Ridge ExpeditionMazur, Daniel · 1995 · 학술지·저널 (2) · HJ
International Makalu Expedition 1995Pratt, Jonathan · 1995 · 학술지·저널 (2) · AJ
MakaluPratt, Jonathan · 1995 · 잡지 (3) · HIGH
· 1995 · 잡지 (3) · HIGH
http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199604000/The-End-of-a-Dream-An-Alpine-Style-Ascent-of-the-Southeast-Ridge-of-Makalu · 1995 · 웹사이트 (5) ·
https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/52/21/expeditions-and-notes-52/ · 1995 · 웹사이트 (5) ·
https://www.alpinejournal.org.uk/Contents/Contents_1996_files/AJ%201996%2059-67%20Pratt%2094%2095.pdf · 1995 · 웹사이트 (5) ·