원정 개요

Van Meter got sick at Jorsale for first time and had diarrhea for 10 days and then at BC section dehydration and then got wrenching cough.

BC established on 3 Oct at 17,200 to 17,300 ft. Dump at 19,000ft (5800m) on 7th Oct = highest point reached by both members. 10th Oct left BC for climb but hour out of BC below dump, Van Meter's health drove him back down. Had gone more directly towards W Face than Japanese had done; were not actually yet on face.

Nima Sherpa went up with McCullough to clear dump after Van Meter dropped out, only time he went above BC.

McCullough and Van Meter wants to come to Pumori with 2 others in 1985; could not trust Schenck after "same things he did" on way to BC.


Ale, Tourism - 12 Oct 82

Schenck left because of personal differences between Schenck and others, Van Meter writes.

BC 2 Oct
C1 9 Oct - 5920m


Jeb Schenck - 10 Oct 82

At Thyangboche Van Meter and other member told Schenck he was not trusted and no longer part of expedition. Jeb never even got to BC.


Bobby Chettri, Mountain Travel - 17 Sept 82

Pumori expedition left today. Plan to climb up West Face and descend via NW Ridge = Traverse says Sharma of Tourism. Have cancelled plans to attempt Kusum Kangru also (no funds).


Steve Van Meter - 7 Sept 82

Route = West Face or NW Ridge if can get permit for it - NW Ridge.
Leave 17 Sept by road to Lamosangu or Kirantichap.

Arrive BC 4 Oct at latest maybe 1 Oct on Changri Shar Glacier southwest of Pumori at about 5400m.

Alpine ascent carrying 1 tent and 4 ropes.
5 days climbing if on face, don't know how many days if on ridge.
No Sherpas above BC.
Maybe medical oxygen (none for climb).

Return mid-November after attempt on Kusum Kangru except Tom McCullough who flies from Lukla 1 or 2 Nov.

1982 American Himalaya Expedition