원정 개요

BC = Bonington BC at 14,000 ft on 14th Sept.

Rene and John went up to biv at foot of face at 5900m 18th Sept; face then like Niagara Falls with constant snowfall. Figured by end of Oct will be cold and no problem, so went back to BC where Alex had infected toe. Col between Modeste and Himalchuli and to Glacier Dome via new route. All 3 were 10m below below summit 6th Oct from plateau between Fluted and Glacier Dome. Abandoned idea of descent from Annapurna I via E Ridge and decided would have to go down N Face.

Down to BC for rest. Porter not well; other 2 went to face on 13th Oct.

Sharma report correct except they reached 7200m. Rene did not go up to recover body - was Porter and sirdar, but sirdar not climbing man and storm blew up so gave up and came to KTM as quickly as possible. Porter returns tomorrow and hopes to catch up with Al Burgess now trekking in C area. Rene may also go. If snowing heavily as is likely, today body may be away. Will build stone chorten next to Ian Clough.

Got to 7000m on 15th Oct, then very difficult vertical if not overhanging rock barrier; above that only 2 days to summit via top of Polish route once they surmounted rock barrier.

Rene would return thru route but Porter not. Polish route much safer and lot easier and would consider this one. Bonington route also safe (but Japanese not). "Line Alex chose is superb, but you must be totally to accept risk."


Sharma, Tourism - 21 Oct 82

MacIntyre killed Oct 17 at about 10:30 am while descending with Rene on South Face to BC. Killed when 5 kg stone struck him at back of neck. He rolled 250m down. After 2 hours Rene could reach him and found his neck broken and dead. Rene carried body to safe place and covered it with biv sack and left it there. Rene arrived BC same day.

MacIntyre and Rene had reached 7000m on face because of shortage of rock pitons to climb steep rock above 7000m. Had decided to come to BC and rest 2-3 days before resuming climb alpine-style.

Porter and Rene tried to move body to BC next day but failed because shortage of manpower. Left BC 19 Oct to arrange helicopter to bring body to KTM and UK.


Cheney, SCT - 21 Oct 82
Laliguras

Alex MacIntyre killed at bottom of face; hit by falling rock. Porter arrived KTM today; Rene in Pokhara, arrive tomorrow.

Had not reached top. Acclimatization not right and were coming down for rest and then push for top.


MacIntyre - 5 Sept 82

3 here now. Rouse not coming. Kurtyka might come (will come to KTM in Oct in any case).

Route on South Face probably to right of Polish route to Annapurna I ridge (east of middle summit) and thence to main summit ideally; possibly up couloir between British and Japanese route.

Leave KTM 7 Sept. Rene might have to stay behind for baggage. Have requested Fluted Peak tkg peak permit) which will give acclimatization and good views of Annapurna South Face.
Arrive BC 15 Sept; same BC for both mountains, 16,000 ft
Fluted Peak summit 25-6 Sept if weather fine.

Annapurna I "has to be alpine style: 3 people, 1 rope and a bivy sack"
No Sherpas above BC.
No oxygen at all and no doctor.
Speed up Annapurna depends on John Porter route of acclimatization.
Would like to be up and down Annapurna I in 1st week of Oct; depends on acclimatization and on when fierce winds might come.
Expedition has no name.