원정 개요

Murphy left expedition 13th Dec - homesick; Jorgenson left 25th Dec.

On 24th and 26th tried for top. 24th Siegrist, Jorgenson, Krueger and Risse got to 21,500 ft. 26th Siegrist and Krueger got to 21,300 ft. After 24th try other 2 went down. Attempt defeated by wind and cold, 2nd [attempt] by both these and altitude related problems.

No further attempts: short on food and manpower and by time got to BC was snowing.

1st time in Himalaya for all and learned a lot, even walking was mental hassle, postage shortage, etc. Climb itself well within capabilities. High wind more continuous than expected.

No accidents, no real frostbite. No Sherpas above BC which took its toll in hauling loads.


Attributed to HMG:

Abandoned 25 Dec after 2 attempts 24 and 25 Dec defeated by extreme cold and high wind; highest point 21,500 ft. All safe and return ot KTM 2 and 3 Jan.

22 Dec C3 20,700 ft


Sharma, Tourism - 24 Dec 82

C2 13 Dec 19,700 ft. Hope C3 20,700 ft by 21 Dec says leaders letter on 14th and summit soon thereafter. Weather had been acceptable and all well.


Sharma, Tourism - 17 Dec 82

Ama Dablam C1 9 Dec 17,000 ft. From 12 Dec started making for C2.


Siegrist - 14 Nov 82

First time in Nepal for all 6 members. Chose Ama Dablam for experience.

Leave KTM 19th or 20th walking in and hope BC early Dec at 15,700 ft high in Mingbo Valley and ABC at 17,000 ft before getting onto South Ridge.

Route = South Ridge (standard route)
Modified fixed camps, not camps and same fixed rope on difficult sections, move camp upwards.
High camp at 20,500 ft or so.
No Sherpas above BC.
No oxygen at all.
Summit between Xmas and N Years, probably New Years more reasonable.