원정 개요

10 Dec Nam alone made route towards summit 150m above C2 and returned to C2 to sleep. 11th Dec 6 am Nam and Lhakpa Gyalzen left. [On top] 4:12 pm - very late because made no C3 as Japanese had done, though no need more fixed rope and could move up very quickly in very good weather. On top very windy, stayed 2 minutes; descent more difficult and moved slowly. Stopped at 7:30 pm at 6800m and made little snowhole. Had only down jacket, down boots and winter trousers. Sherpas had no down boots but also no frostbite. 12th Dec 7:20 am started descent again and reached C2 11 am. Lee in C1 and thinks Nam dead until Nam comes on walkie-talkie from C2. Lee did not attempt summit because no one to go with. With only 2 members and 1 Sherpa would have been better to have a C3, but with windy weather that came up maybe would not succeed in reaching top if took time for making the added camp. C1 to C2 most difficult: 2 big rocks on this S Ridge route. All fixed rope on this very steep rock and ice section.

No accident, no real frostbite (Nam 2 numb fingers).


Sharma, Tourism - 17 Dec 82

Summit 11 Dec. At 6:00 am Nam Sun-Woo started climbed from C3 at 6450m. Reached top 4:12 pm where sunny but very very windy and planted Nepal and Korean flags but couldn't stay more than 2 minutes because high winds. In descent could not reach C2 and bived at 6800m. On 12 Dec returned to C2 at 9:00 am and to BC 13 Dec.

Leave BC 16 Dec. Other climber, Lee Hyun-Soo became sick and did not climb above C2 in expedition.

All well, no frostbite.


Kim - 16 Nov 82

Advanced party left KTM on 24 Oct with caravan on foot to Khumbu. Leader leaves KTM 21 Nov to Lukla.


Nam - 19 oct 82

Route up South Ridge, climbed by Japanese.
Leave KTM 5 Nov by plane to Lukla and acclimatize.
Start climb 1 Dec and reach summit 15 Dec. Make 2 camps above BC.
BC 5500m
C1 6100m
C2 6750m
1 Sherpa above BC = 3 men climbing
No oxygen
Korean Winter Pumori Expedition