French Expedition to the SW Ridge of Jannu
Jannu · 1983 · 봄 (1) · France
원정 개요
Not difficult to do last part, which Czechoslovakians avoided [in 1981], straight to summit: 55 degrees in good snow (Czechs were exhausted). Most difficult part was very steep ice (10m high but vertical) at about 6900m and also steep ice just below C4: 65-degree hard blue ice, also chimney very difficult pitch.
Others did not try: 1 ill, 1 hit in back by rock and was taking care of ill member; leader needed fixed rope which wasn't there. C1 to C2 very dangerous: steep icefall also.
Fillon carried parachute to summit and tried to jump from top down N Face and again from C6 but wind too strong. At C6 tried to run on snow patch but wind came in all directions. He fell 20m and did not try again. With gentle steady wind would have been possible from top to C1.
- 내부 원정 ID1523
- 원본 EXPIDJANU83101
- 대장Henri Sigayret
- 루트 (Route)SW Ridge
- 최고 도달고도7711m
- 정상 등정 성공예
- 산소 사용미사용·확인 필요
- 종료 사유정상 등정 성공 (1)
참가자 8명
| 이름 | 국적 | 역할 | 정상 등정 | 산소 | 사망 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Henri Sigayret | France | Leader | - | - | - |
| Denis Ajasse | France | Exp Doctor | - | - | - |
| Dominique Bourret | France | Climber | - | - | - |
| Roger Fillon | France | Climber | 성공 | - | - |
| Luc Jourjon | France | Climber | 성공 | - | - |
| Elisabeth Julliard | France | Climber | - | - | - |
| Jean-Noel Roche | France | Climber | 성공 | - | - |
| Pascal Sombardier | France | Climber | - | - | - |