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Hubert and Georges started for C4 on 22 April and 1st biv at 6350m of seracs. 22 April bad weather, Hubert fell 60m and lost rucksack with sleeping bag and camera, leaving them with one bag, returned to bivouac.

24 April again up, good weather and snow later therefore got to end of 2 km ridge and started up face with seracs and bived at 6600m on small plateau from 25 April same several face; bived just under 70m wall at 6750m.

26 April up the ice wall to summit at 12 pm in beautiful weather. Then in descent too dangerous to return by same ridge in exhausted condition and without food and drink, so came down S Face to 5500m, where Dr. waited with biv gear.

Route difficult. Waited to stay on east and not get around on north; east was their plan and wanted to stay on new route on east. Last 70m was 90 degrees ice wall; above C2 lots of cornices, very dangerous; last 500m serac to go up or around in lots of fresh snow.