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Alpine Expedition City of Lecco Himalaya 1983 to Lhotse Shar

Lhotse Shar · 1983 · 봄 (1) · Italy

원정 개요

BC on west side of Lhotse Glacier northwest of Island Peak.

Site for C3 = high point plus 15m but not reached because bad weather: snow fall heavy and avalanche danger too acute. Young members wanted to stay on, but Riva called whole thing off and weather continued bad while they waited for porters to arrive.

Winds impossible even in BC, 3 days bad weather for every 1 day of good; and avalanching danger. Winds of 100-150 km/hr and 40 cm snow almost daily. Would have had to stay one month more to succeed but in one more month climbers bodies deteriorate too much at altitude.

Could succeed in good weather. Route difficulties not a problem in technicalities for this team, just constant strong wind and snowfall.

  • 내부 원정 ID1518
  • 원본 EXPIDLSHR83101
  • 대장Giancarlo Riva
  • 루트 (Route)SE Ridge
  • 최고 도달고도6985m
  • 정상 등정 성공아니오
  • 산소 사용미사용·확인 필요
  • 종료 사유악천후 (4)

참가자 16명

이름국적역할정상 등정산소사망
Giancarlo RivaItalyLeader---
Mario ContiItalyDeputy Leader---
Giuseppe (Det) AlippiItalyClimber---
Luigi (Gigi) AlippiItalyClimber---
Marco BalleriniItalyClimber---
Franco BaravalleItalyClimber---
Floriano CastelnuovoItalyClimber---
Marco Della SantaItalyClimber---
Giuseppe FumagalliItalyClimber---
Alessandro (Sandro) LiatiItalyClimber---
Roberto MagniItalyClimber---
Ezio MolteniItalyClimber---
Giuseppe NegriItalyClimber---
Noberto RivaItalyClimber---
Giuseppe RusconiItalyClimber---
Dario SpreaficoItalyClimber---

출처·참고문헌

Cheney, Michael J. & Hawley, Elizabeth · 1983 · 학술지·저널 (2) · AAJ
· 1983 · 잡지 (3) · MM
http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198423801/Asia-Nepal-Lhotse-Shar-Attempt · 1983 · 웹사이트 (5) ·