원정 개요

BC south of Gangapurna on moraine of east branch of Modi Khola.

Wanted to go to top on 3rd but weather bad with heavy snow and all went to BC on 3rd. All 4 started up on 8th reached C2 where spent 2 days snowbound. On 12th all up from C2 but one sick [Thoma] and Amann down with him to BC. Bitschnau and Mattle to C3 on 12th.

Reached last crevasses above C3 and from C3 wanted to go to top. Too much snow and too dangerous from avalanching to go on. Had not actually reached W Ridge; changed to E Ridge before began climb after saw condition of W Ridge from BC.

11:30 am 13 April avalanche hit C3 and tent collapsed. Bitschnau and Mattle cut tent with knife and got out in underwear and barefoot, saw another avalanche coming, dropped to ground, powder went over them and they dug out their sleeping bags, stove and biv sack and made snow cave. Clear 13th am, made better cave in avalanche danger zone. 14th to C2 in chest-high snow and 15th almost in C1 and returned to BC and climb finished.