원정 개요

Jeff reached there in solo ascent. Reached top 4:30 pm (from 3rd biv at 9:00 am) and back to 3rd biv about midnight in bright moonlight. Returned to BC on 19th.

Wiggins tried gully on face to 18,500 ft and would have carried on up if hadn't become ill for second time.

Did not do route originally planned: wind so strong it was blowing rock off the ridges and so considerable rockfall. Had planned to climb deep gully to left of buttress actually climbed. Scottish Grade 4 and a little [Grade 5] ice climbing with hardest about 22,600 ft and some had between 20,500 and 21,000 ft.

Wiggins altitude illness; on 8th he come down to Pheriche where Lowe recovering from cold. Returned to mountain and started up on 19th on originally planned route, got to 18,500 ft fixing rope, but got sick again that night and had to quit. Left Pumori BC in rush.

No accidents. Had permit for Nuptse but with Wiggins sick they made no attempt.

Dec 8 Wiggins developed pulmonary edema and evacuated to Namche by Lowe who returned to BC and made his climb. Wiggins returned to BC Dec 16 and again on 20th developed pulmonary edema. Planned expedition to Nuptse therefore cancelled.