원정 개요

BC at usual site at end of road, 10-12 km beyond Rongbuk monastery on Dzakar Chu (Schneider map).

Very, very much snow; very strong climber Tiziano Zuend left expedition; Nottaris broke foot so two of best cllimbers out of action.

Originally planned Japanese 1980 direct to Hornbein Couloir, "very nice" direct route, but too much avalanching in Hornbein so went left towards Great (Norton) Couloir. Both routes easy technically on gentle slopes. In Oct wanted to join French on W Ridge but still too much snow.


Nottaris - 22 Aug 1982

Original plan: Japanese 1980 route direct to Hornbein, very nice, direct route, but too much avalanche in Hornbein, so went to left towards Great (Norton) couloir; same route as US 1982.

16 Sept Nottaris C3 to C4 and broke foot after descent to C2 (that night twisted ankle breaking foot bones).

17 Sept Nottaris on hands and knees down to C1 and by yak to BC.

3 men in C3, all others in BC. 6 days much snow fall and unable to move. C3 safe place but above and below much danger avalanches from Changtse.

23 Sept near in C3 descend

3 Oct one member of party of 3 reached C4 again in waist-deep snow and 4 Oct down again.

Discussed with Yannick Seigneur, French West Ridge expedition leader, joining forces on West Ridge, which was safer from avalanches.

4-12 Oct 3 Swiss members in C2 (Swiss and French C2's in same place) waiting for snow conditions to permit going up, but neither Swiss nor French went up.

12 Oct - all to BC.

14 Oct - left BC expedition finished.

To C4 on 16 Sept:
Romolo Nottaris
Gianluigi Quarti
Ivano Regazzoni
Jean Troillet
Aldo Verzaroli

In C3 and C2
Jean Troillet
Gianluigi Quarti
Aldo Verzaroli

Nottaris leader
About 10 members
Left Switzerland mid-Aug - arrive BC end Aug
End of Oct finish
North Face (try to make new route)
Jean Troillet, Makalu 1982 is a member


Nottaris (Swiss Makalu) - 5 Nov 1982

Nottaris will be on Everest NE Ridge in early autumn 1983 and then come to Ama Dablam joining expedition already on Ama Dablam in autumn.


Expedition Romolo Nottaris: Ice gully, North Face, highest point reached, 7400m abandoned due to bad weather. On Oct 12 Nottaris broke his leg on 7200m while descending. Running away from falling rock, stepped into small gap.

Nottaris climbed 6700m peak about 3 Sept for acclimatization in solo trip one day BC->summit->BC. (40-50 degrees not very difficult) = point 6720m on Schneider Khumbu map, ESE of BC.