원정 개요

C1 a little higher then normal because Icefall breaking up
C2 in Western Cwm
C3 on Lhotse Face
C4 at South Col.

1st summit bid made on 10th May: Tashi, Groom and Lobsang occupied C4 on 9th with Hume and Aleksov and Lock occupying C3 same evening. Groom left C4 at 11 pm on 9th with Harry Taylor of British team; Tashi and Lobsang left camp at about 1 am on 10th using oxygen. When Groom and Taylor reached 8650m, other teams Sherpas on oxygen passed them. Groom to summit at 10:30 am. Tashi abandoned attempt at 8400m with vision problem (probably retinal - couldn't have been snowblindness because no pain and only 1-1/2 hours of day light for him) and down to C2. Lobsang to top with Indians. Ball saw him just below S Summit and OK in descent, not seen alive again; found at 8200m without any of his oxygen supply on slope leading to col; apparently he became confused when oxygen supply ended and wondered on to same very steep ground and fell and died of fractured skull; found on 12th (search on 11th impossible because of winds); body taken down over a week and cremated at Pangoche on 20th. Hume and Aleksov and Lock to C4 on 10th but unable to go go top on 11th because of wind; 12th Lock and Aleksov found body. Hume wanted to go up to top but Tashi decided expedition over and all Sherpa effort from other teams to bring down body.

(Tashi helped by American's Sirdar and Rabold descended by talking them down over walkie-talkie, said Keith Brown).