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First Indo-Nepalese Women's Everest Expedition 1993

Everest · 1993 · 봄 (1) · India

원정 개요

C1 at top of Icefall
C2 in Western Cwm
C3 on Lhotse Face
C4 at South Col
C5 but not occupied.

1st summit party occupied C4 and opened route and fixed ropes to S Summit on 5th May; Nimi and her husband in this group; down on 6th May because of deep snow.

2nd summit party of 10 reached S Col and on 10th 8 to summit while 2 others put emergency camp at 8400m and returned to col in support.

3rd support-3rd summit team to col on 15th and to top on 16th.

On summit on 16th May (total 10 - 4 Indian women, 2 Indian men and 4 Nepali
Sherpas):
10:45 - Radha Devi Thakur
Rajiv Sharma
11:00 - Lobsang Jangbu Sherpa (no oxygen), 22, Beding (his 1st 8000er)
12:00 - Deepu Sharma
Savita Martolia
Nima Dorje Sherpa, 37, Beding
Tenzing Sherpa, 25, Thami (his 1st 8000er)
Nima Norbu Dolma
01:00 - Suman Kutiyal
Sirdar Nga Temba Sherpa, 38, Kharikhola

Rajiv Sharma: technical advisor were guiding some members.

Sherpas on Summit 10th May:
Dorje Sherpa, 28, Thamo (Everest once before)
Ongda Chhiring, 24, Dinching (near Sedua), Makalu (1st 8000er)
Kusang Dorje Sherpa, 34, Walung, Makalu (1st 8000er)
Na Temba Sherpa, 36, Kharikhola (1st 8000er) - not same as Nga Temba on 16 May.


Re Lobsang Jangbu - 21 May 1994

US Everest expedition led by Goryl reported Lobsang Jangbu, who summited with them, told them he had used oxygen sleeping in C4 in May 1993 (did not do so in May 1994).


Guy Cotter of New Zealand-US site - 14 May 1995

Everest expedition said Lobsang Jangbu, this expedition's only summiter, told them he did not use oxygen on either of his previous Everest ascent.


Todd Burleson - 22 May 1993

Burleson saw "technical advisor" clipping and unclipping teenagers. Most of these women would not have reached summit without those male advisors who told Burleson they were doing "typical guiding" on this climb.


Banskota - 7 May 1993

5 May summit party left South Col at 2:00 am, reached South Summit 3:45 pm in waist deep snow; left South Summit at 5:00 pm and arrived back at South Col 10:00 pm. 6 May summit party descended to C2.

In party were Anita Gurumayum, Deepu Sharma and Nimi Sherpa. "Supported" by Rajiv Sharma, Nima Norbu, Lhakpa Sherpa, Nima Rita Sherpa and Nga Temba Sherpa.

2nd summit attack is planned.

  • 내부 원정 ID1502
  • 원본 EXPIDEVER93109
  • 대장Bachendri Pal
  • 루트 (Route)S Col-SE Ridge
  • 최고 도달고도8849m
  • 정상 등정 성공예
  • 산소 사용사용
  • 종료 사유정상 등정 성공 (1)

참가자 31명

이름국적역할정상 등정산소사망
Bachendri PalIndiaLeader---
Rita Gombu MarwahIndiaCo-Deputy Leader---
Santosh YadavIndiaCo-Deputy Leader성공사용-
Dicky DolmaIndiaClimber성공사용-
Nima Norbu DolmaIndiaTechnical Advisor성공사용-
Chandra Prabha AitwalIndiaClimber---
Kunga BhutiaIndiaClimber성공사용-
Bimla Negi DeoskarIndiaClimber---
Anita Devi GurumayumIndiaClimber-사용-
Dal Dev (Baldev) KunwarIndiaTechnical Advisor성공사용-
Suman KutiyalIndiaClimber성공사용-
Upasana Malla (Thakuri)NepalClimber---
Savita MartoliaIndiaClimber성공사용-
Sarla NegiIndiaClimber---
Harsha PanwarIndiaClimber---
Rita PatelIndiaExp Doctor---
K. SaraswatiIndiaBC Manager---
Deepu SharmaIndiaClimber성공사용-
Rajiv SharmaIndiaTechnical Advisor성공사용-
Nimi SherpaNepalClimber-사용-
Radha Devi ThakurIndiaClimber성공사용-
Dorje (Dorje Lambu, Big Dorje) SherpaNepalH-A Worker성공사용-
Kusang Dorjee SherpaIndiaH-A Worker성공사용-
Lhakpa SherpaNepalH-A Worker-사용-
Lobsang Jangbu SherpaNepalH-A Worker성공사용-
Nga Temba SherpaNepalSirdar성공사용-
Ngatemba (Nga Temba) SherpaNepalH-A Worker성공사용-
Nima Dorje (Dorje) SherpaNepalH-A Worker성공사용-
Nima Rita SherpaNepalH-A Worker-사용-
Ongda Chhiring/Tshering SherpaNepalH-A Worker성공사용-
Tenzing (Tenzen, Tenzi) SherpaNepalH-A Worker성공사용-

출처·참고문헌

Hawley, Elizabeth · 1993 · 학술지·저널 (2) · AAJ
· 1993 · 잡지 (3) · HIGH
All Women Indo-Nepal Expedition to Everest - 1993 · 1993 · 학술지·저널 (2) · HMJ
http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199420700/Asia-Nepal-Everest-in-the-Pre-Monsoon-Season · 1993 · 웹사이트 (5) ·