원정 개요

C4 at South Col.

7th May one of Hall team's Sherpas went up early on Lhotse Face, came back after dropping load and prepared tents collapsed and not possible to sleep in them. Members tured around after only an hour's trek out of C2 (at bottom of W Face) and thus put back program by a day. Burleson Sherpas not turned around and found tents actually entirely usable. So summit party reached C3 on 8th and C4 on 9th; on 9th winds became very strong in mid-afternoon. 10th in this party: Burleson, Athans, Pawlowski, Todd, Cedergreen, Morrow, Kerr, Fischbeck, Lakes and Sherpas Lhakpa Rita, Chuwang Nima, Kami Rita, Dorje and "Gopal" Man Bdr Tamang. Had to stay in C4 4 nights before able to go for top because of winds (may be 50-60 mph - could walk around col but could not have gotton clients to top) and would never have gotten clients back up to C4 if had gone down. 12th May afternoon winds died and all 15 climbers set out for summit at midnight. Todd frostbite and turned back at 8150m; Lakes suddenly took off oxygen, fell hours behind (had been helping Todd) but cannot account for reason he turned back 100m below South Summit. Fischbeck ran out of oxygen below South Summit and turned back, so his pal Kerr (who had summited before) also turned back. Fischbeck moving fairly slowly and would have difficult to get him to summit. All slept at C4 again and on 14th to C2.

Whitby evacuated by helicopter from BC 25th April because of intestinal obstruction and went to Singapore for treatment and is recovering.

Oxygen:
C2-C3 - Burnett
C3-C4 - all clients, some guides, no Sherpas
At C4 - all climbers all the times they were there whenever they wanted it
C4 to top - all who went up from Col
Lhakpa Rita no oxygen above 8400m
Lakes stopped and used at 8600m
C4 in descent used by Morrow, Cedergreen and Fischbeck to about 6600m
(base of fixed ropes)

Sherpa Summiters:

1) Lhakpa Rita Sherpa, Thami, this is 3rd summit ascent, no other 8000ers
2) Chuwang Nima Sherpa, Thami, this his first 8000m summit
3) Kami Rita Sherpa, Thami, Lhakpa Rita's younger brother, this his 1st 80004er
4) Dorje Sherpa, Thami, this his 4th Everest ascent
5) "Gopal" Man Bahadur Tamang, lives in Kathmandu, this his 2nd Everest ascent

Summiters times on summit:
11:00 am - 5 Nepalese together
12:00 pm - Pawlowski and Cedergreen
12:30 pm - Morrow and Athans
1:15 pm - Burleson