원정 개요

C2 at West Cwm
C3 at South Pillar
C4 at South Pillar.

Most difficult section: 6850m to C3 which all blue ice and fixed rope from 6850m to 5 pitches above C4 - little snow on mountain. 10 ice axes broken in climbing overhanging and ice and no place to rest.

Use of oxygen:
members (but not Sherpas) sleeping in C3;
members and Sherpas sleeping in C4, climbing from C4 to summit to C4 and
again sleeping in C4.

This expedition sent the first people to the summit on 13th May, according to Peter Athans of Burleson expedition on 26th May. Japanese were on top by 10:00-10:30 am.

Sherpa summiters (according to Lhakpa Tenzing - 30 May 94):

1) Nima Dorje (not Mingma Dorje), 38, Rolwaling - this his 4th Everest ascent
2) Dawa Tshering, 23, Beding, summited Cho Oyu last Oct; this was his first
Everest ascent.
3) Lhakpa Nuru, Kharikhola, this his 5th Everest ascent
4) Nima Temba, Lukla, this his 1st Everest ascent but his 4th 8000er
5) Dawa Tashi, Beding, this his 4th Everest ascent
6) Pasang Tshering, Beding, scaled Everest Cho Oyu before
7) Na Temba (Lhakpa Tenzing doesn't know which Nga/Na Tenzing this is) [Nga Temba
went to Everest in summer 1994 & told leader he summited only twice before]