원정 개요

10th Sept avalanche took away C3 and supplies for Lhotse C4, Everest C4 (3000m rope) and fixed ropes; re-established C3 100m higher than first C3 on 30th Sept with only one tent since Sherpas didn't want to sleep on face. Then fixed rope on 1 Oct 250m above C3 from C3. 2nd Oct bad winds; 3rd Oct two teams left C3, one for S Col and other for C4 of Lhotse and slept in Lhotse C4 by 1 French and 2 Sherpas while 1 French slept in C3 to join them next day to Lhotse summit. 4th Oct Lhotse team in their C4 started at 9 am while man in C3 started at 4:30 am, on Lhotse C4 at 8:00 am and down at 9:00 am; 2 Sherpas fixed rope to bottom of couloir. Lhotse summit reached 4 pm by Vionnet-Fausset (sirdar Danu claimed he also got to top but French do not believe him and Vionnet denies this) and slept in C2 at 9:30 pm; now Lhotse climb finished.

Everest C4 made and occupied 5 Oct by Gramond, Cayrol, Bernard, Gyalbu and Dawa Tashi and all 5 on summit on 6th (Gramond never used oxygen) and slept in C4. On top about 2:30 pm; Gyalbu fell 15m on Hillary Step and waited for 2 French to go first; 9th next party to top; Esteve found 1 British guide and 1 Sherpa from Ball's expedition and tripod with glass altitude measuring device from Italian research program.

Sherpas previous ascents of Everest:
Norbu - South Col route
Gyalbu - Hornbein route
Dawa Tashi - 2X South Col
Gombu - no Everest summit before

Everest Aut 1993, Sherpa summiters

6 Oct - Gyalbu, 29, Rolwaling
Spr 1991 Everest (N) Swedes
Dawa Tashi 30, Rolwaling
Spr 1993 Everest
Aut 1992 Everest Dutch
9 Oct - Norbu (Nuru) 25, Rolwaling
Gombu, 25, Rolwaling
no previous Everest ascent

None atop any other 8000ers before.