원정 개요

Did not make any serious attempt at Lhotse as a summit. Avalanche took away C2 on 20th Sept at 8 pm when no one was in camp; obliterated from C3 too and carried away from C4 loads there also. British established C3 on 29th in much same place. 1st people slept on C4 on 6th.

Blanco, on oxygen but it was exhausted, passed out in Hillary Step. Spanish Sherpa gave him a new cylinder and he revived after 1/2 hour and was helped down to C4 at 7 pm (in dark). Had slept on oxygen night before, but none left on night 7th. Today still very tired; had very slow descent; "it's as though he used all his energy going up and had left none for going down"; "he is very tough but Everest is such a big mountain it does test your stamina."

Blessed got 8400m never using oxygen on 9th, now out of energy and came down to C4; had waited for day light before setting out to go up (others left at 1:30 am - he only person on 9th not to get to top).

Sherpa summiters earlier 8000ers:

7th Oct - Nga Temba, 35-36, Everest Spring 1993 with Indian women (S Col)
- Dorje, 28, Everest Spring 1993 with Indian women; Everest
Spring 1992 with Americans, etc (Burleson, S Col)
Pasang Kami, 20, no previous 8000ers
9th Oct - Tenzing, 29, Everest Spring 1993 with Indian women
- Nga Temba, 42, Everest Spring 1993 with Indian women;
Makalu 1978; Kangchenjunga 1982
- Lhakpa Gelu, 26, no previous 8000ers
- Ang Pasang, 46, no previous 8000ers