원정 개요

BC at road
ABC at Shipton Meadows (nice lateral moraine)
C1 at base of Changtse before the glacier
Biv at North Col ABC
Biv at North Col.

Did carries to corner camp (C1) - whole basin of Rongbuk couloir was basin of avalanche debris so decided to acclimatize on route leading to Great Couloir - got to 23,500 ft. On 14th Sept after having gone around to other side of N Col hoping to acclimatize by going to col, but bad weather intended & on 14th again bad weather (big storm) so down to ABC on 15th. Back to C2 on 19th, another storm 20th ABC, C1 on 25th, ABC 26th with another storm. C2 on 29th & 30th to 23,000 ft on earlier but snow "slabby" & back to C2. On 2nd Oct again to 23,000 ft but snow no better & down to ABC. 5th to C2, snow fell & back to ABC. C2 on 8th, on 9th even worse than before so decided finished with N Face.

On 11th to N Col ABC from east side now alpine-style; N col ABC at 21,300 ft. 12th to N Col, 13th to 25,600 ft close to traditional C5 but strong wind could barely stand up so back to col; 14th at col, 15th one more push: to 25,000 ft, still very windy & down to N Col ABC & 16th to Chinese BC. Other team's camps had been shredded by winds. Viesturs last person off the mountain from north side.

Ms Gunn spent most of time at ABC but to C1 once; Tanding Sherpa to C2 once; rest of time Viesturs climbed alone.