원정 개요

BC at road
C1 at North Col
C2 at North Ridge C2.

Too much snow and ridge very dangerous, so made no camp below below 8000m because no safe place. Took 9 hrs to climb from C3 to C4 and 4 hrs to return to C3. From 8200m would have traversed yellow band into N Face. Original plan was to climb Messner route but too much snow on face. C4 established at 8200m on 21st but did not sleep there till 30th, when 4 members went for summit push. On 30th westerly winds started and blew way one tent at 8000 but luckily no one in it; 120-140 km/hr; tent heavily laden inside - temp -35-40 degrees. Slept in C2 2 nights, then abandoned attempt on 2nd Oct because of winds. Had made a temporary camp at 7600m on 20th Sept while moving up and slept in only by Sherpas ferrying loads. On 2nd Oct 4 men down to C3 at Col and during descent 2 members got both hands and fingers frostbitten badly (not using proper gloves and not taking proper care) and left before main team's departure by few days but climbing finished. Sherpas tried to clear C4 later but couldn't reach it because of wind (now snow conditions good and weather clear) - wind blew out snow under C4 tent when it was occupied. 2 frostbitten men left BC 4th and other members 6th.


Duration: Aug 7 to Oct 9, 1993

Report: Bibhujit, Soumitra and Atanu established C4 at about 8200m: on Sept 21, 1992 on yellow band. Bibhujit, Soumitra, Atanu and Goutam slept from Sept to Oct 2 in an intermediate camp at 7700m. The expedition abandoned on Oct due to high wind and abnormal weather conditions. Goutam and Soumitra were frostbitten in both hands and were rescued from North Col by the other members.