원정 개요

BC at road head
ABC at Tilman's meadow (below North Face west of Changtse)
C1 just north of pt 6189 on NGS map
C2 in basin below North Col on col's west side
C3 at bottom of Great Couloir.

From C2 split into parties but used some route (and did not attempt heavily snowed-up "Anderson Couloir"). Up N Face into Great Couloir (as Italians led by Forno in '91). Anderson, Teare & Bearzi left C2 17th Aug, Anderson to 7500m to see snow conditions & other 2 went on up all night & made deposit for C3 at 7600m. Easiest walking was on avalanche tracks - came down through C2, where Anderson had spent the night and all those down to ABC. Went up to C2 several times hoping that weather break had arrived; 27th Aug (Duncan & other 3 climbers) spent night there, camp hit and buried by two avalanches and back to ABC on 28th in strong storm from north. 3 Sept up again by Anderson & Bearzi, blizzard came and on 4th back to ABC. 11th Sept to C2 by 3 climbers but Anderson slept there; others down because storm clouds reappeared. 12th Sept Anderson left alone 5 am & climbed to 7600m deposit in 9 hrs; had hoped to go straight thru to summit but snow knee-deep & worse so stayed at 7600m. At 3 am 13th Sept Anderson started up again but snow in couloir deep. Got to yellow band & snow deeper. At 6:15 pm stopped ascent getting dark so down; in dark couldn't find own tracks on C3 and at 11 pm bivouacked at about 7600m near C3 in small snowhole for the night. 7 am on 14th left biv & down to C2, 15th to BC - raging blizzard on 14th.

Anderson sees his climb a solo attempt since he was alone on his last two days push to the summit.

Ed Viesturs - 21 Oct 93: Viesturs saw Anderson just below yellow band and believes his account of having gone across the band using rope he found there.