원정 개요

On 8th May from C3 were Shih and Hu with Ongda Chhiring and Moti Lal Gurung - walkie-talkie contact 2 pm, Hu run out of oxygen at 8450m and turned back with Moti Lal to C3. Chhiring at 8600m about 2 pm felt not well because lack of oxygen (carried but didn't use it) and suggested to Shih they turn back and try again next day, but Shih decided to continue up alone. Chhiring went back to C3. Shih at 17:18 called by walkie-talkie, said had come to top and many flags here; took pictures; was told to come down because getting late (snowfall would start that time). At 20:27 Shih radioed "I'm in danger - don't know how to go" because of snow and said he had fallen twice. At 20:46 Shih said he'd found rope and wanted to use it. Moti said no, wrong rope because it was in Great Couloir - 21:00, Shih said "I'm very tired, I must dig snowhole to have nice sleep." Moti told Shih he would bring oxygen and from tomorrow morning so stay where he was but keep moving all night not to sleep. From 22:00 every 30 minutes BC called Shih and talked to him; he responded 7:32 am 9th May when said he's okay and could see him. 9:38 am told him to go east, he could hear because he moved that way but could no longer transmit. Was seen moving very slowly until before 12:00, after 4 hrs movement, he was seen to stop and not move again. Then strong winds began. Moti did not go up but went down with Hu to C1 at noon; Hu very weak. Moti called on radio to other team's Sherpa to go up but no one can help. Shih stopped at 8700m, 100m east of Great Couloir. Ongda Chhiring and 2 other Sherpas started up from C1 to go up to bring down C2 tents. These Sherpas will never enter Tibet again: CMA knows whole story and never think about life but about recovering valuable tent. 2 members in C1 but not strong enough to go up - climb finished. Moti Lal had said no C4 necessary.

All Koreans except BC manager went to ABC but only 9 to C1.

Oxygen used by 4-man summit party of 8 May - used sleeping in C3 and climbing up on 8th May.


Steve Matous, US Everest N leader - 24 May 94 (re Taiwanese Everest):

Norman Shih ordered to summit or not come back. Taiwanese refused to help rescue Phinzo in Simonson team. 18 Sherpas carried him down ABC and this set back all teams except Taiwanese who wanted to go for summit instead.

Moti worked very hard for Taiwanese - "murder" not justified. Taiwanese blamed Sherpas when they themselves were not competent.


Sloezen - 9 June 94 (re Taiwanese Everest):

Moti was completely occupied with rescuing another Taiwanese who had altitude sickness and couldn't possibly rescue Shih too.

Taiwanese inexperienced - not up to this kind of climb.