원정 개요

Pre-BC at Karta - end of road
C1 at Kangchung Glacier 1-1/2 km; from base of East Face
C2 at same site as Venables teams
C3 at same site as Venables teams.

Route is very dangerous from avalanches & unstable seracs & not sensible to be on East Face anywhere. Had to move BC down to normal BC site after avalanche hit to 17,500 ft. This took a week & the several members got bronchitis so C2 no tent established till May. Swenson & others carried to C2 & he only slept the night of 5th; he came down to C1 next day. All to BC on 8th & decided to give it up. 12 April heavy snowfall put 1 meter of snow on route which was avalanching - classic slab-avalanche conditions.

After decision to abandon East Face, Lowe, Pittman and Swenson went to north side to ask to join Simonson's or other's teams; Swenson was accepted (had climbed K-2 without oxygen), but not Pittman and Lowe was her guide so he went only where she went.

Had chosen East Face because magnificent face in wild lonely area, not a climb from a base camp village of many others teams. "It's the journey, not the destination." - Breashears.