원정 개요

C2 at North Col
C3 on North Ridge
C4 at bottom of yellow band on North Face.

1st attempt for top reached C4 9th May De Marchi, Spazzadeschi and Tirtha Tamang; winds forced 2 nights stay in C4 and 11th down to C2 and then ABC: "multi vento."

2nd bid up from ABC 16th May: De Marchi, Gianola, Beltrami, Tenzing and reached C3 17th; De Marchi, Beltrami and Tenzing reached C4 on 18th; found oxygen and 2 sleeping bags and taken from C4 (using Taiwanese tent and perhaps Simonson's Sherpas thought bags and oxygen were Taiwanese). De Marchi on 19th at 3:30 am, left from C4 together [with Hahn]; reached 2nd Step and De Marchi turned back (tired and long way to go still and getting later and had only 1 bottle oxygen while Hahn had 2) at 8650m at 1 pm and slept in C4 and 20 May to C2. During descent to C4 got frostbite taking many hours, trouble finding route, all alone, stopped too often and long. Now climb finished: this was to be last summit bid and yaks scheduled to clear gear from ABC 21 May.