원정 개요

BC same as Japanese 1981 autumn

Early (2:00 am) started from C2, fixed last rope from 7000m on ridge and reached 12:40 pm. Tratnik started from BC on 27th and reached top at 1:00 pm. Very strong wind so could not stand up, but clear weather: "very nice view."

Fixed rope to ridge and on 26 Oct start for top from C1 (except Tratnik who went up from BC after recovery from stonefall). 1200m total fixed rope. Only difficult part was between C2 to ridge at about 7000m - 60-65 degrees steep, mostly hard ice.

Tratnik hit by stone and Brisar hit by serac but nothing very serious.

1 trekker was on mountain only 1 week.


Novak - 22 Oct 83

Started from Dumre 28 Sept,
arrived Manang 7 Oct
arrived BC 8 Oct 5200m
C1 9 Oct 5500m
then constant snow 3 nights and 4 days up to 2m snow cover.
13 Oct all to C1 making route through snow and found all tents ruined.
14 Oct replace C1 tents, etc.
15-16 Oct making C2 (Novak left on 16 Oct) at about 5900m.
All members well.

[Marjan] Novak must go home to his job.