원정 개요

BC at road
C1 at North Col
C2 on North Face to right of ridge.

Weather perfect all through time (no snow fall, no wind including no snow from top, no afternoon clouds, "just clean blue skies") but July had typical monsoon weather. C2 moved 300m up because its site too exposed to avalanching that could come at any time. Snowing every afternoon & trail at 8100-8200m but couldn't find safe-protected site for it [C3] on 23 July. "Just too risky" to put on open face. Another problem was that client Bager was very tired & could not have gone to top next day. No other members at all strong enough for very high altitude. Totally unrealistic for any of these clients to be on Everest except Bager, who could have made summit via S Col route. Bager only competent climber amongst clients.

Banks on 29 July in bed in North Wales - still had no feeling on right side and will take time for destroyed nerve endings to grow back. He came to KTM on 19th, flew to UK on 22nd and spent 4 days in hospital.

Peter came to KTM 28 July with baggage and Sherpas. Other members fly from Lhasa to KTM 2 Aug.