원정 개요

High point on SE Ridge.

Summit attempt from BC at 4:00 pm 10 Oct arrive C4 1:00 am 11 Oct and 400m above Col and then "many winds" at 7:00 am and turned back and descended to BC same day. 2 teammates sent up with supplies to C4 on 28 Sept but one got frostbite at C3 on 29th so they down to BC and which reached BC 3 Oct and helicoptered to KTM. Mingma again up to Col on 10 Oct before Kaji. Mingma had not left at C3 as requested Kaji's climbing suit so Kaji arrived at Col only in cotton shirt (though had enough energy to climb and through night to C3 without climbing suit - arrived C3 at 9:30 pm). Climbing suit was at Col and put it on and got into sleeping bag for an hour to get warm. Main reason for failure was his being cold as he did not wear climbing suit from BC because it weighs 1 kg.

Wants to try again next spring.

Japanese Nukita said 20 Oct that Nepalese used other people's tents.