원정 개요

Thamserkhu Trekking said would make route through icefall by 1 Sept but started to make it on 1st. This delay bothersome because Japanese wanted summit in Sept. Delayed C4 by winds which started 1 Oct. Spent 5 nights at C4. 9th Oct could have summited but 1 Sherpa not well & went down & 2 others came up from C2. Japanese left C4 10:30 pm 9th Oct (2 Japanese & 6 Sherpas left Col for summit) & had to wait 30 mins on SE Ridge for 2 Sherpas who left C4 at 11 am. 6:30 am at col beyond S Summit Miyahara said could not see from his right eye (it's pupil white) & route condition bad, brittle ice, easy to break on surface. Miyahara decided to go down & 3 Sherpas went with him while Nukita continued up with 3 other Sherpas. At one point Sherpas didn't want to go to top but Apa changed his mind & went up after all despite strong wind & on top 11:55 am. Nukita & Miyahara left C4 together on 11th. Miyahara eyesight better on return to C4 & all night in BC.

Miyahara - 20 Oct 94: Max altitude reached 8793m=South Summit; right eye started failing at about 8500m & blind by S Summit; cause unknown, perhaps first time this has happened to a mountaineer; at C4 on descent better; at C2 normal.

Oxygen used:
Miyahara: in C2 & climbing up from 7000m, sleeping in higher camps & descending to C2.
Nukita: sleeping in C3 & C4, climbing above & back to C3.
Sherpas: 2 in C3 & all in C4 & above it (waiting 2 nights)

Sherpas:
Apa, 37, Thami, Everest summit 5X before this one
Chuwang Nima, 22, Thami, Everest once before
Dawa Tshering, 28, Thami, this his 1st 8000er