원정 개요

C1 at North Col.

A later C2 pitched at 7600m on 8/9th May because long way from N Col to 7800m, but this 7800m camp kept and called C2 1/2. 17th May from C3 2 am (Boukreev without oxygen), Ratcliffe and Sitnikov, reached top at 8:30 am (Ratcliff) Sitnikov at 12 noon and Boukreev at 9:30 am and waited at and near summit 2-1/2 hrs for team's client Sitnikov at 12 (no frostbite); somewhat windy; Ratcliffe to 7800m at 1 pm; Russians to C3 at 3 pm.

23 May Jones and Jorgensen left C3 at 4 am, on top 1 pm together and back to C3 6 pm. Had been very windy on 21st and 22nd, so waited 2 days for improved weather: less wind and rather warm.

Chappaz tried for top from C3 on 21 May without oxygen; left C3 1:30 am, lost fixed rope, headlamp malfunctioned, waited for dawn and returned to C3, down farther on 22nd. No other attempts.

Oxygen: Chappaz and Boukreev none at all; others: some at 7600m and above, others at 7800m or even 8200m and above.

Jinx against commercial team's clients summiting broken by the lovely weather from 11th May and decision to go for it quickly. Had hoped for stable weather at full moon time (moon was full on 14th), and people and supplies were ready. When Japanese and even Taiwanese suceeded on 11th, everyone determined they could too. Pawlowski, who paid to be a member of this expedition, was 1st client to top.

Charles Hsieh of Pfau's expedition joined Todd's team as an independent climber (not formal member).