원정 개요

Did not go to N Face because were delayed for 7 days at Zangmu by avalanches on the road; now not enough time left to go to face. After C2 made, very bad weather with very strong winds. 11th May team C3 10:30 am & on summit 6 pm & return C3 10 pm; were 1st summiters via normal route of all expeditions. Very deep snow on traverse from 2nd step & this very dangerous. 13th May left C3 8:30 am & on top 4 pm & C3 8:30 pm in very good weather (1-1/2 hours to top taking photos). Ang Rita very strong climber. Not more on summit because had not planned to go to this route, some inexperienced in high mountains & not enough oxygen (had 30 bottles total).