원정 개요

C1 at North Col
C2 on North Face
C3 just below North Ridge before 1st Step.

Were expedition's 1st team to go to ABC, many crevasses between BC & ABC so yaks could not go there, took time to establish ABC. 1st summit bid was on 12th May: left C3 2:40 am, on summit 11:30-11:45 am, before one European, whom they met a second step at 1-1:30 pm; returned to C2 9 pm. 12 oxygen bottles stolen from C3 before summit bid leaving only 12 for Taiwanese. Summit party's Taiwanese: only used to sleep in C3 on oxygen on climb to top. Taiwanese only used oxygen till last 1 hour when Mingma also used it; used down as far as C3 only. Miss Chiang; "not so difficult but some places very dangerous." On descent Tenzing slipped below 2nd step but Miss Chiang caught him & he was okay. All climbing members reached N Col. Only one summit attack because so little oxygen.

Oxygen used only by Chen & Chiang sleeping in C3 & climbing above C3; Mingma Tshering only climbing near summit (last 1 hr of ascent); Lhakpa none, Tenzing none.

Summit Sherpas:
Mingma Tshering, 24, Rolwaling
Lhakpa Dorje, 29, Kurima (see note with EVER-961-04)
Tenzing, 25, Namche