원정 개요

C1 at North Col
C2 at top of snow ridge.

"It was incredible weather." Most on top in middle of month; winds came up on 18th but dropped again on 22nd and "you could probably climb it now." 1st attempt from top camp by Brice on 16th and turned back at 1st Step, moving very slowly in fresh snow, had left camp later but beautiful weather.

17th 1 am Lacatusu, Clemenson and Chuldim Sherpa set out for top; Clemenson turned back only few meters and too cold; Chuldim stopped above 1st Step to help Tony Tonsing; descended with Sherpa from OTT (and Sherpas lost their summit bid) and Lacatusu to top at 2 pm; started down at 2:15 pm and returned to C3 at 8:00 pm; oxygen had run out during ascent at Second Step.

Next summit bid delayed by strong winds. 26th May Brice, Child, Whittaker, Karsang (Ang Rita's son) and Lobsang left at midnight (25th/26th); at 4:30 am at 8500m reassessed situation and Whittaker (with artificial leg) turned back; slow ascent, fixed ropes in condition, head lamps had failed; Brice back with him but Child and Karsang and Lobsang carried on up and reached top at 10:00 am; caught up with Tinker's summit party. A Tinker member slid towards edge but somehow stopped, Child pulled out old fixed rope and so did Tinker Sherpa Ang Babu; they pulled him back to route and he went to top in state of shock. "North side is a poor one for me" says Whittaker because loose surface he is not good on.

27th May Valanne reached 2nd Step and then turned back with problem with crampon, oxygen ran out and he was slow.

Sherpas:
Karsang, son of Ang Rita, 1971, lives in Thami
Lobsang Temba, 1968, lives in Khumjung

Fee for peak: $5500.