원정 개요

C1 at North Col
C2 on North Ridge
C3 on snow field 200m below North Ridge on North Face.

[Kirsis and Zauls] 14th May left C3 at 8:30 am, reached top at 3:15 pm and back at C3 at 7 pm having spent 45 mins (without oxygen at the top).

16th May summit bid from C3 reached 8500m. Pauls and Tilen Tamang turned back because of problem with both men's [oxygen] sets.

17th May Bernans and Buss arrived at C3 to make summit bid, but not enough oxygen and wind and snow had come up and had spent 2 nights at 7800m waiting for Sherpas to bring oxygen.

Hired:
Tilen (Tamang?), 27, from Makalu area [most likely Thilen Sherpa from Nurbugaon]

Patscheider returned to Chinese BC 24 April (from KTM, went twice to N Col including one trip on to 7500m; then 13th May left ABC at 7:30 am, climbed through night (N Col 3 hrs cooking, C2 again 3 hrs cooking), left C2 at 8 pm 13 May and climbed all night, cold slightly windy on ridge, but not too much in moonlight ("nice night") and reached summit at 4:30 am; was entirely alone until joined on top by 1 member of other expedition and 2 Sherpas. Was little bit tired, but returned to ABC at 1 pm 14th May. Fastest ascent of Everest, Patscheider believes (but he started from 6450m whereas Batard from 5350m; Batard had icefall to climb through).