원정 개요

BC at road
C1 on NE Ridge
C2 on NE Ridge above rock face and below Pinnacles
C2 above 3rd Pinnacle and on North Ridge
C4 below First Step.

Most difficult part of route between C5 to C6 amongst pinnacles; spent 3 days making route here, fixing 1250m rope here. 11th May up from C6 Nima and Pasang at 3 am (not enough tent space and oxygen for them in C7) & others from C7 at 4 am & arrived at top 6:45 am. Nima and Pasang arrived at top 7 am (1st arrivals spent 1 hour at summit taking photos & collecting rocks; no clouds, no wind (had to hold flags horizontally - flags of 3 countries, university flag & flags & flags of sponsors). Descended NE Ridge to ABC at 6 pm same day & climb finished. General leader & deputy feared accident by other members who in "no good conditions." Had made a camp at North Col (camp NC4) in case of failure on NE Ridge.

Use of oxygen - used by some sleeping in C4; by all members & Sherpas sleeping in C5 & above C5.

Summit Sherpas:
Dawa Tshering - summit Everest with Japan spring 1994 S Pillar (Beding)
Lhakpa Nuru - summit Everest 5 times before (Kharikhola)
Nima Dorje - summit Everest 4 times before (Beding)
Pasang Kami - summit Everest 1 time before (Kharikhola)

Boardman's body seen atop 2nd Pinnacle at 8200m about 2 meters from Japanese fixed ropes - harness 1m below body - laying face down with right arm outstretched - hair on head not visible: biv sack covering head - through trousers could see hair on leg.

Sherpa's previous Everest summits:

Dawa Tshering (Beding) - 8/5/94 S Pillar - Japanese team
Lhakpa Nuru (Kharikhola) - 25/2/92 S Pillar - Spanish
- 28/9/92 S Col - Italian
- 22/4/93 S Col - Nepalese
- 9/10/93 N Col - British
- 8/5/94 S Pillar - Japanese
Nima Dorje (Beding) - 7/10/90 S Col - French
- 27/5/91 N Col - Japanese
- 16/5/93 S Col - Indian
- 8/5/94 S Pillar - Japanese
Pasang Kami (Karikhola) - 7/10/93 S Col - British