원정 개요

C4 at North Col
C5 on North Ridge
C6 on snowfield below 1st step on North Face.

Yaks were dumping gear and there was snowfall after BC arrival. 14th summit by 4 members, Kaji, Chhiring and Wangchu. Left C6 at 1:00 am and on top 5:30 am by Mallory, Chhiring, Kaji and Hall 6 am; Litch at 9 am; Aguilar at 9:30 am; Wangchu at 9:15 am and returned to C6 by 9:20 am to 5:30 pm.

16th summit party 4 members, Jangbu, Phinzo and Karma (Karma back at First Step with stomach trouble); on top Phinzo, Lynch 8 am, Budnick 10 am, Jangbu twice (2nd time from 200 ft below top to help a member) at 10:30 am, Reneker and Jangbu at 11:45 am, Wedberg 12:15 pm; back to C6 1:30 pm to 5 pm.

Total climb was fixed from bottom of N Col by various teams at various times (Mallory climbed from highest camp to summit in 4 hrs 35 mins, where as most people this season took 6 hrs, says Brice team member.

Hsieh left team 13 May because Pfau told him he couldn't go higher than N Col as other members didn't have confidence in his judgement and did not want to make summit bid with him. He went to Henry Todd's team to climb with them (Todd said 2 June his group felt sorry for Hsieh and agreed he could climb with them independently but he did not summit).

Mallory convinced his grandfather reached summit. If Odell correct that he saw George Leigh Mallory at Second Step, it would not have impossible technically for G.L.M. to get to summit even without the ladder everyone uses nowadays. G.L.M. was skilled rock climber; above Second Step no great obstacle and G.L.M. was highly motivated.

This expedition had a 13th climbing member, David Tollakson of Studio City, Calif, was Reneker's good friend. He died on practice climb with Renekar in US on 9 April 1994 and Renekar carried his ashes to Everest summit. Tollakson had summited highest points on other six continents.

Sherpa Summiters:
Kaji (Loding), 32 - speed climber - this his 3rd ascent
Chhiring = Ongda Chhiring (Dingjung, Makalu area), 25 - 3rd ascent
Wangchu (Changba Village, Tapting VDC, Solu), 29 - 1st ascent
Jangbu (Changba Village, Tapting VDC, Solu), 23 - 1st ascent
Phinzo (Rolwaling), 26 - 3rd ascent (previous ones: US via S Col in 1990
Oct and US via S Col 1993 Spring)