원정 개요

C2 in Cwm
C3 on Lhotse Face
C4 at South Col
High point at below South Summit.

Summit bid on 12th May by Athans, Williams, Hanna, Pond, Kammler, Leonard, Fischbeck, Hoffman, Berg, Gyalzen, Tenzing, Gopal Tamang, Kami Rita, Dorje and Nima Tashi. Left C4 at midnight, all together to 8500m when snow became very deep (Hall's rope of few days early under 3 feet of snow) so progress too slow, so turned back at 10:40 am: very apparent not going to summit and safety was imperative. Returned to C4 3:00-5:00 pm. Last summit bid because this was entire team (except for Burleson, who was busy with Sherpa's death) and no strength left.

Sherpa who died at age 22, very strong C2 assistant & climbing Sherpa to carry loads to C2 when clients not in C2. Was descending from C3 carry when fell: went very fast & not clipped in. Died immediately from "severe head trauma" - fell at 7100m to base of face.

Berg fell 14th May into last crevasse descending icefall - unconscious for 20 mins. Hall Sherpas helped rescue. Williams down 50 ft into crevasse & got him out with head injuries & broken left wrist - helicoptered from BC.

Oxygen Used:
by all or most members (no Sherpas) sleeping at C3
by all or most members (no Sherpas) sleeping to C4
Berg after his fall for at least 24 hrs.


Mohan Singh, Asian Trekking - 11 June 95

Bribe demands from HMG official: Indul KC, Under Secy in Tourism in charge of mountaineering, claimed he had "done everything" to get Burleson's permit for Everest this spring and therefore he demanded $5000-$10,000 in cash, camera, video camera and mountaineering equipment. Demands made after Burleson had left for Khumbu - made to Burleson in Khumbu when Indul went to Namche for meeting of Sagarmatha Pollution Control Committee and Burleson was returning to KTM from climb. Burleson gave Indul nothing in Khumbu. In KTM Indul pressed the matter, met Burleson in Mustang Hotel, was given a payment (not more than Rs 30,000) and was taken into custody by Special Police.