원정 개요

C1 on edge of top of icefall
C2 in Cwm
C3 on Lhotse Face
C4 at South Col.
High point [for members] at South Summit.

Mauduit left C4 with 2 Sherpas at 11:30 pm 6th May; Sotelo, Ward, Hansen, Hall, Viesturs, Cotter, Ang Dorje, Ang Pasang [from Hoffman team], Lobsang Jangbu left C4 at 0:56 am of 7th May - clear weather and no wind. Hoffman party of 9 came just behind - conditions in lower gullies harder snow than usual and rope fixed. Hall group passed Mauduit group at C3 am at 8300m (she without oxygen, Sherpas with so as not to get cold waiting for her). Wind came up at dawn and at SE Ridge, deeper snow and very cold wind blowing snow around; reached here at 8500m at 6:30 am. All ropes below S Summit had to be dug out and some rope replaced. At 8:30 am at 8650m started up steep rock to S Summit and arrived at S Summit at 12:15 pm in chest deep snow on the rock. Cotter and Lobsang Jangbu worked in up fixing rope to Hillary Step while Hall, et al, waited at S Summit (Hoffman party too) to see Cotter progress and decided at 1 pm to cancel bid because too late (Hoffman party made same decision). Lobsang carried on to top at 1:30 pm while all others turned back. All were in C4 by 8:30 pm Mauduit "was turned around" at S Summit at 1:40 pm and collapsed, was given oxygen while drifting in and out of consciousness and lost motor control; was dragged down from S Summit and then supported down, carried and dragged all the way to C4 where she collapsed and went into spasms and was medicated for cerebral edema and on oxygen all the time to bottom of Lhotse Face at 11 am on 8th May and by time back in BC on 9th had fully recovered. All back at BC on 9th, but all clients on this attempt would not have returned alive to C4 if they had continued up; guides & Sherpas would have been OK.

Oxygen used:
Ward from bottom of Lhotse face (6800m)
Sotelo and Hansen from C3 (sleeping)
Guides from yellow band (7600m)
4 Sherpas at and from Col
Mauduit on descent from S Summit
Lobsang Jangbu not at all