Kangch Crossing Challenge to Kangchenjunga and Yalungkang
Kangchenjunga · 1995 · 봄 (1) · Italy
원정 개요
BC at normal site
C3 at Great Shelf
High point at biv.
30th April stopped because of deep snow (70cm) and above the high point was couloir with avalanche danger. From 4 April to 4 May it snowed every day from 3 pm to evening or midnight. Went above camps nine times trying to make real progress.
29th April Mondinelli, Galezzi & De Stefani at 7700m to left of classical route 100m under serac (at base of seracs) found body of woman whose left leg from knee and right arm pulled out of socket. Mondinelli thinks she fell from distance - skull missing from eyebrows up and most hair gone (little left was curly light brown). Bulgarian pills found in chest pocket. Mondinelli saw it was a woman: breast flesh was left and waist narrow - leg broken at knee & skull means did not fall with snow avalanche, means fell on rock. Mondinelli found body thinking pink and yellow he saw from distance was a tent and went to look. Body placed in crevasse; nothing taken from it.
Description of body found by Italians and Michael Groom - 15 May 95
Her falling down southwest side does not mean she reached summit - difficulties of summit pyramid near one traverse at about 8400m to right to West Ridge and a col there, then up West Ridge to top, traversing rock buttress on southwest side, so "very easy to fall down SW Face - can even get blown down the SW Face."
Body: [Yordanka Dimitrova or Ekaterina Ivanova from Belarus Aut 94 expedition, or Wanda Rutkiewicz?]
Simone Moro - 3 April 2007
Simone Moro says that De Stefani told him that the body was Wanda Rutkiewicz. The body had the right leg missing below the knee, the other leg had a Scarpa boot, and the down suit was pink and yellow matching previous clothing worn by Wanda. It was a woman with curly hair. The body was at 7200m on a snow plateau and appeared to have fallen down from the col that separates the main peak from Yalung Kang. The body was buried in a crevasse by Mondinelli, Galezzi & De Stefani.
Czech Kangchenjunga Spring 95 from Simono Moro - 15 May 1995
1/4/95 Established BC - good weather
5/4/95 Michelangelo Opranos, return to KTM
7/4/95 Established C1 by Fausto De Stefani, Silvio Mondinelli
16/4/95 Established C2, time 15:00 by Fausto De Stafani, Silvio Mondinelli,
Marco Galezzi
19/4/95 Mauro Mabellini return to KTM because home program with family
19/4/95 Idel Corsini (wife of one member) arrive in BC
28/4/95 Established C3 - 7300m, time 13:30 by Simone Moro, Fausto
De Stefani, Silvio Mondinell, Marco Galezzi
29/4/95 Established C4 - 7600m, time 12:30 by Fausto De Stafani, Silvio
Mondinelli, Marco Galezzi
29/4/95 Found the body of one women probably Wanda Rutkiewicz,
but put it in crevasse
30/4/95 Carry to 8000m the tent of C4
Biv Fausto De Stefani, Silvio Mondinelli, Marco Gallezi
1/5/95 Fausto De Stefani, Silvio Mondinelli, Marco Gallezi return to BC
5/5/95 Members leave BC
- 내부 원정 ID1451
- 원본 EXPIDKANG95101
- 대장Simone Moro
- 루트 (Route)SW Face
- 최고 도달고도8000m
- 정상 등정 성공아니오
- 산소 사용미사용·확인 필요
- 종료 사유산악 상태 (5)
참가자 6명
| 이름 | 국적 | 역할 | 정상 등정 | 산소 | 사망 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Simone Moro | Italy | Leader | - | - | - |
| Fausto De Stefani | Italy | Climber | - | - | - |
| Marco Galezzi | Italy | Climber | - | - | - |
| Mauro Mabellini | Italy | Exp Doctor | - | - | - |
| Silvio Mondinelli | Italy | Climber | - | - | - |
| Josef Rakoncaj | Czech Republic | Climber | - | - | - |