원정 개요

C1 (at first only deposit)
C2 on south side of East Ridge
C3 on south side of East Ridge
C4 on East Ridge
C5 on East Ridge
C6 on NW Ridge normal route.

E Ridge originally intended route but decided at BC this ridge had too many small rock peaks and would take much time to follow it, so went from BC to C3 on south side of ridge and then from C3 to ridge, where C4 and C5 were pitched. C6 below Makalu La and C7 on NW Ridge of normal route. Fixed 5600m: C2 to C3 half this distance, half of route again between C3 to C4, all of C4 to C5, C5 to junction peak of 7300m all; C6 to C7 150m only, from C7 to summit 400m - most difficult from C3 to C5: from C3 to C4 very sharp snow and ice ridge with cornices. From C3 and C4 ice avalanche hit 2 Sherpas but not seriously hurt. Tanabe hit by rock at 8300m and head gashed but could continue descent without help. On 21 May summit party left C7 at 4 am and on top 12:45 pm and 2 members returned to C7 to sleep while others 2 to C6 about 6 pm and slept there; very clear but very strong wind. 22 May summiters started from C7 at 3:30 am, on top 11:40 am and slept in C6. "This most difficult climb in my experience" says Tanabe.

Expedition financed by Yomiyuri newspaper. Royalty was $30,000 and were 12 climbing members.

Campsites as given in JAC notes:
BC(30/03,3960m),C1,C2(04/04,4690m),C3(14/04,5650m),C4(28/04,6300m),
C5(13/05,6820m),C6(19/05,7350m),C7(20/05,7650m),Smt(21-22/05)