원정 개요

BC at normal site across moraine from Mingbo
C2 at normal C3.

24th April made summit attempt by Cleary and Bridges but turned back in bad weather exhausted at 21,300 ft. On 25th same pair reached top from last camp after having rested, eaten and drank most of 24th. More ice climbing than expected and route continuously technical climbing from C1 to summit. 24 rope lengths of technical climbing on ridge: fixed on rope but on lower part of route did use some old fixed ropes on ridge.

In ascent all 4 members made biv at 19,500 ft on 22 April but no one slept there later. Cleary and Bridges were stronger team at the time. On 23rd McIntyre and Koury went down from biv while stronger pair went on up.

On 25th April Koury and McIntyre found a woman's body out 600 ft down the south side of the ridge between C1 ant C2; body was covered with stones with boots sticking out (must be Karine Van Dooren of 1992 Aut French-Belgian-USA-Italian team).