원정 개요

BC a little below Japanese and French BC.

Left altimeter on top tied to Japanese oxygen bottle (later found by Swiss).

Started climb on 17 Sept and mode three carries 45-50 kgs total, fixed ropes on route. Down to BC on 24 Sept for rest and better weather. 27 Sept again in C1 and on 28 Sept to 7050m and again snow so to C1. On 29th to C2. 30th to gully at 7300m and to C1 and on 1st Oct to BC. Weather bad until 6 Oct. Left BC on 6 Oct for 1st summit bid and reached C2 on 7 Oct and took this tent on 8 Oct to 7700m. On 9th tried for top but got about 8000m before went back in snow and cloud on top, so back to BC on 9th more bad weather.

14th started up again: 14th in C1, 15th in C2, 16th in C3 and 17th on summit. Started at 5:00 am and reached top at 3:00 pm and returned at 8:00 pm on 17th, in bright moonlight but had to search for about 1 hour for C3 (was very tired, no food and water and altitude). On 18th down to point where most others who came up to meet and help salvage equipment at about 7200m. At BC on 19th. No real help from others except to save equipment.

Had some route finding problems because of need to go around crevasse. Fixed 100m rope and again 200m (2 sections) below C1 and also used some old ropes; also 50m just below Great Shelf in seracs on very narrow ledge (most dangerous pass).

No injuries except slight frostnip of toes and fingers; fell twice into crevasse to waist.


Pierre Beghin - 5 Nov 1983

I think it is difficult to say: "so happy, but so tired." The very happy because at the climb alone I began in March to organize expedition - during 6 minutes "very anxious" since all depended on him.

"For me it was bigger achievement" than technical difference W Face of Manaslu which he climbed with Muller. "There is some fascination to be alone" but also very hard moments in camp when you are alone and you think a lot." When climbing is Ok.


Mrs Ranville - 27 Oct 1983

Beghin did entire climb absolutely alone. All load carries. everything.

She left BC on 17 Oct when he was going to top. He should have left BC about 24 Oct to arrive KTM about 1 Nov.


Khadga, Tourism - 26 Oct 1983

Beghin summited 17 Oct at about 4:00 pm.
Team scheduled to leave BC 23-24 Oct.
Herve Ranville and wife left BC 17 Oct.
No details of climb.


Letter from P. Beghin, BC 5400m - Sept 17th

Our BC was established two days after an approach march 19 days long. From Hile to Yamphudin in 10 days with 38 porters (25 ropes by day); from Yamphudin to Ramche; 4 days with Yamphudin porters (200 ropes). From Ramche (4500m) to BC normally 3 days but 28 from our 35 porters decided to come back. So with 7 porters remaining it took 6 days. We helped them to carry, so we paid 600 rupees by charge between Yamphudin and BC and shoes and food to provide.

This morning I carry to 6200m about on the ridge before the cliff to climb down - heavy snow-cloudy, 3-1/2 hours. Some crevasses to take care because I was alone. I plan to carry the gear I need in 3 times. Monsoon is not finished. Fair weather in the morning, monsoon before noon.