원정 개요

BC at Italian BC (low BC because here helicopter could land)
ABC at normal BC site
C1 at North Col
C2 at start of NE Ridge.

Throughout April and 1st 4 days May every evening gone. 1st summit attempt on 2 May by Bachkirov, Khilko, Krylov and Popov stopped at 200m above, saw state of snow (waist deep and great avalanche very close); had started from first C4 at 7400m, which on 6th May was placed at 7450m. 7th May Akinina, Outechev and Solomatov tried for top from 7450m camp and to avoid avalanches kept on ridge; reached 5000m at 4 pm so too late for summit and turned back. 9th May from C4 this trio plus Bochkov again tried for top and succeeded; left C5 at 5 pm in bad winds from south (dangerous to traverse very far below ridge so traversed above). Next summit bid on 14th May and party used normal traverse route: weather had changed from winter to spring with much better snow conditions; left C4 at 2:30 am and reached top 10:30 am and back to C4 at 2 pm in perfect weather, very warm on top (without down jacket), no clouds, no wind.

ABC entirely removed on 23 April by unknown persons: borrowed from Swiss to be able to summit, but not enough clothes for all members and had to trek tents from C5 down to C4. Marpha police caught 2 porters of trekking groups and restored half or more of stolen goods after climb finished.